WILD THYME, NEW STREET,
CHIPPING NORTON 01608 645060
Angela Swann can’t wait to revisit a
cosy place where the food is cooked to perfection.
ATTENTION
all foodies! Hitch up your
wagons and head west – to West Oxfordshire that is, and the busy
market town of Chipping Norton. For there you’ll find, tucked in
between the antique shops and estate agents, a cosy little
eaterie offering top notch modern British food that’s beginning
to make a big name for itself since opening in December.
Cocking a snook at the credit crunch and
waving talk of recession away with a jus-soaked spatula, chef
Nick Pullen and partner Sally Daniel upped sticks from
Portsmouth and opened Wild Thyme, a ‘restaurant with rooms’,
cleverly spotting a gap in the market in Chippy for high-end
nosh. We arrived to check it out after a flurry of posts on the
chippingnorton.net forum and were immediately impressed by the
cosy, but stylish, interior.
Despite being a chilly Saturday evening, we
were shown to the last free table in the place. Or so we thought
... half an hour later we were amazed to see a party of 10
troop, in Tardis-like fashion, through to a second room in the
rear. Offering a select range of dishes with locally-sourced
ingredients – all homemade from the delicious sun-dried tomato
bread to the chocolate truffles handed out with the bill – Wild
Thyme’s seasonal menu is well thought out and makes
mouth-watering reading.
SO WHAT DID YOU HAVE?
For starters, I had the seared Cornish
scallops and parmesan with cauliflower puree and crispy
pancetta. The scallops were cooked to perfection, lightly golden
on the outside and juicy inside, while the cauliflower puree
tasted so good I had to stop myself licking the plate. My
vegetarian husband spent a few minutes torn between the wild
mushroom and sherry soup and the Rollright goat’s cheese tartlet
before plumping for the latter. He was more than happy with his
choice, particularly the tangy filling and the accompanying
caramelised beetroot, hazelnuts and lambs lettuce.
For mains, he enjoyed the multitude of
flavours in his butternut squash and Crudge’s cream cheese
ravioli with spinach, walnuts and parmesan, while I tucked into
whole roasted Ducklington partridge, braised red cabbage, roast
chestnuts and chipped Jerusalem artichokes – a beautifully
wintry dish with a rich depth, which I savoured like a fine
vintage wine.
With just the right amount of time to relax
between the courses, we contemplated the sweet menu, noting some
intriguing combinations such as beetroot and chocolate fudge
brownie. In the end, I had the chocolate and hazelnut creme
brulee, which consisted of whole soft hazelnuts in a light
creamy, chocolately crème under a crispy topping – it has to be
tasted to be believed. Obviously deciding he hadn't already had
enough cheese, he ordered the local cheeses, which included a
couple by local popstar-turned-farmer Alex James and Kingham
cheesemeister Roger Crudge, accompanied by quince chutney and
homemade biscuits.
WHAT ABOUT THE SERVICE?
Discreet and friendly, Sally is on hand with
knowledgeable advice about which wines to choose – she picked
Penny’s Hill McLaren Vale Vintage Fortified Chiraz from
Australia to accompany the cheese board, which sent Himself home
with a crimson-lipped grin of satisfaction spread across his
face.
AND THE PRICES?
Not particularly cheap; the mains are priced
around £10.50 to £18.50 with slightly less expensive items on
the lunch menu, but we both agreed you certainly get what you
pay for, if not more.
VERDICT: A
wonderful way to spend an evening – truly fine dining in the
intimate atmosphere of a lovely Grade II listed building, albeit
easy to miss,
occupying
a thin sliver of space in a terrace of shops and offices.
Perhaps we could persuade someone to rig up a giant red arrow in
the sky, because believe me, you really DON'T want to miss
it....
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